What to wear when it's raining in the city: shoes (3/3)

We have made it to the final part of this series. After discussing the most important part of your waterproof system, the jacket, we have touched on the role played by pants. Last but not least, come the shoes. A crucial element that can make or break an outfit, both aesthetically and from a functional standpoint.

Picture this: 6, maybe 7 years ago, long before I was a dad. I was touring the world, carefree, unbeknownst to the fact my scandalous environmental footprint would soon go back to an acceptable level.

Ilha Grande, Brazil: I had just stepped out of my hostel in my flip flops despite the heavy rain, because why not? It was so hot, my feet would not mind getting wet, after all, it was like going for a swim without fully immersing my body!

Great analogy. Great idea. Talk about swimming: how was I going to swim with a twisted ankle huh? After a few seconds, as I was walking on uneven and slippery terrain, I almost sprained my ankle due to my hazardous choice of footwear. Luckily, I only experienced a little pain, but nothing major. Then it dawned on me: imagine I really did sprain my ankle? That would have been me, stranded on an island in Brazil, far from the closest hospital or the Rio de Janeiro airport. This incident could have ruined my holidays. All that for a bad decision I made in a few seconds, to save a few seconds. The worst thing is, it was not my first time doing this; but I knew it would be the last.

This is the type of mistake I was capable of before. This is also the kind of mistake that turned me into what I am today. Someone who has learnt from his mistakes and now knows how to choose adequate footwear before stepping outside. This skill is absolutely crucial in the rain for various reasons:

Traction (adherence to the ground)
Staying dry and warm
Social appropriateness.

It is not such a big deal to choose what to wear when the sun is shining; all you have to do is take the social context into account. But just how do you decide what to wear when the weather turns?

This is what we are about to discuss, taking into account various criteria such as your environment, the intensity of the rain and the season.

What shoes to wear when you are going to work in the rain

Three season-use

The truth is, you do not really need actual waterproof shoes unless you are walking for over 10 minutes in an intense shower.

As long as you are just commuting or driving your car from point A to point B, any type of leather shoe with average traction and a clean, minimalistic aesthetic which you pretreated with a water-repellent spray should do. On that note: water-repellent, water-resistant, hydrophobic all pretty much mean the same thing: making water drops bead off so the outer layer does not get saturated.

Even if leather is naturally wind and water-resistant, you need to treat your shoes with a specific product that makes them lastingly water-repellent and protect them, which you will find anywhere; otherwise, water will get through if rain is abundant and leather will eventually crack after a short while.

Smart-looking shoes made of synthetics are also an option; they'll even dry quicklier!

Now, you might be working in a very laid-back environment like Tech and not care about looking smart, in which case, you can refer to the chapter on casual shoes down below.

In the winter

You still might not NEED waterproof shoes per se, but they definitely are a nice-to-have in the winter. Cold rain or snow will rapidly make you feet very cold if you don't have waterproof shoes on, most of all if you are not wearing socks made out of synthetics, or better yet, wool. And the Gore-Tex (or any other waterproof membrane, e.g.: eVent) will keep your feet nice and toasty as long as you are taking it easy. If you are indulging in any intense activity, it may cause your feet to overheat.

Yes, running around or cycling in waterproof shoes could get your feet wet from the sweat. So there is definitely a balance to be found.

So, as I was saying, waterproof shoes are not indispensable. You should be fine with thick, robust leather shoes with good traction. But waterproof mid/high-top shoes are just protective, warm and reassuring. When you wear them, you know you can tackle whatever life throws at you and this is also what winter life is about: being self-confident enough to step outside, knowing that you are wearing the right gear that will allow you to reach your goals for the day.

My first go-to is the famous 6-inch Waterproof Timberland work boot I have been rocking since the 90's, and which has gained newfound popularity these days!

These things are a bit heavy, but in terms of style, versatility, waterproofing, traction and sturdiness, they are hard to beat. Even though they are on the pricier side, I always manage to get them on sale.

My second favourite option is the Gore-Tex and Vibram outsole version of the Clarks Wallabee boot. It is the combination of waterproofing and hiking boot-type traction for me -with that effortless chic Clarks are known for. Moreover, these can actually be worn during the shoulder-season too, so great investment. Again, quite expensive; moreover, they hardly ever go on sale. But when they do, they are a must-cop for me.

I understand these are streetwear icons which might not be for everyone. Any type of robust high-top leather boot will do (e.g.: Doc Martens or even better, Solovair will fit the bill if that is more your style). Feel free to add your recommendations!

What shoes to wear casually in the rain

Three season-use

My recommendations are the same as above: leather or synthetic shoes with a grippy outsole, preferably sneakers for comfort. But forget about those extra-breathable, perforated models which will quickly let water through.

Run-of-the-mill sneakers will not work if you spend more than 10 minutes in a downpour though. If you are going on long missions, I highly recommend any kind of sneaker with a waterproof membrane. For this use case, I just think hiking shoes (preferably low-top for 3-season use) and trail-runners reign supreme. I understand these are not everyone's cup of tea but their popularity is at its peak right now, so what's not to be liked? The waterproofing and traction are unmatched. The lugs on outdoor shoes make them much less prone to slip.

You know what? Just go with whatever low or high-top waterproof sneaker you like but remember one thing: any low-top shoes need to be worn in conjunction with long, quick-drying/water-resistant/waterproof pants in the rain, so as to not let water in from the top.

In the winter

In my free time, when I am out and it is raining, I like to move fast. And Timberlands are just a little bit too heavy for that. I just cannot seem to find anything better than waterproof, high-top, winterised sneakers (think thick sneakers with lugs on) in the winter. Even better, waterproof high-top hiking shoes. Certain models from brands like Salomon and Hoka (born in France but respectively recently bought by China and the US, even though Salomon still has its headquarters in France) strike a balance between hiking-type traction/ruggedness and sneaker-like looks and flexibility. Plus with high-tops, you are guaranteed not to get your feet wet, which would be very unfortunate in winter. That is why I suggest you stack all the odds in your favour and forego low-tops for this season.

The pinnacle of great traction is provided by Vibram outsoles. These are extremely stable outsoles with lugs created almost a century ago for hiking boots and which continue to adorn a lot of winter shoes, not just hiking ones, almost in their original form. You do not have to get shoes with these specific outsoles. But if you do, chances are you will not be going back to regular outsoles! No sponsor here, just a fan of non-slippery outsoles.

Once again, if that does not sound like you, just find whatever pair of high-top sneakers or formal shoes that are warm and waterproof, with a grippy outsole.

Another casual option that seems to be favoured by a lot of people are rain boots by French brand Aigle. Although not on the breathable side, they are perfect for quick and light missions outside when the weather is grim. Here in France, they also seem to be on every kid's feet in the school yard.

My winter rotation; from top to bottom: Jordan eVent future Boot, Hoka Kaha 2 Gore-Tex, Timberland 6-inch boot, Gore-Tex Clarks Wallabee and Jordan 11 Gratitude.

Pitfalls to avoid

The road to keeping your feet dry whatever the occasion is long and strewn with obstacles. This is no easy task and you will not get it right the first couple of times. Here are a few examples of common mistakes people make when it is raining:

Not checking the weather, looking out the window or going on the weather forecast app and wearing any type of shoes, pretending it is not raining. Bad day guaranteed, unless you are in luck and it is only a short drizzle.

I see it all the time: people will wear very flimsy footwear or sandals/flip-flops in the rain (yes, I have been there) when it is not too cold outside. With flip-flops, the risk of slipping/spraining your ankle is real. With low-profile sneakers like the Adidas Samba for example, your feet will get wet in no time, and slipping is also on the menu.

When it is raining, certain people will even walk around in Uggs, especially Tasman slippers. And my question is:

But... why though? I mean I get the lazy principle behind it, but just understand one thing: you are RUINING the suede that is on the upper and shortening their life span! Not to mention the risk of slipping with such unstable shoes on.

This brings me to my second point: do NOT wear suede shoes in the rain.... unless they are waterproof or you have given them the water-repellent treatment.
Try to avoid white and light-coloured footwear when it is raining as well. They will get very messy from the puddles and whatnot, and that is not a great look.

Remember (and I am saying this loudly for the white Nike Air Force 1 crew sitting at the back): white shoes are meant to STAY CRISP WHITE. If they are dirty, there is no point in wearing them.

Now that we have got the obvious out of the way, let's dig a little deeper: this is not a fatal flaw by the way; maybe just a pet peeve of mine. But hear me out: your shoes need to match the rest of your outfit. You will often read it in my articles. How many times have I seen people wearing hiking boots with trench coats. How did you put this outfit together thinking it looked OK? If you are going to wear this kind of footwear, wear a waterproof jacket that matches the vibe. If you are going to work and you want to wear a smart coat, pair it with leather shoes. Simple! Mind you, do not let rules get in the way of creativity. There are ways to match a formal-looking coat with some sneakers. Just make sure the contrast between the two is not too stark.
Another one that is a bit tricky: DO NOT WEAR GORE-TEX SHOES IN THE SUMMER! I have seen it a lot and it makes me flinch big time. You do not need those in the summer, especially when you are walking around: if you get your feet wet, they should dry in no time. Gore-Tex shoes are not breathable at all in the summer and you WILL get sweaty and smelly feet from them.

Gore-Tex is overkill in the summer. Let it be known.

There are other pitfalls but these are the main ones to avoid. I do not want this to start looking like the 10 commandments so I will stop there, but I am sure you get the idea by now.

And that is it! Remember the examples of shoes I give are only examples. You do not have to buy these specific models, but rather take in the fundamental principles I am elaborating on.

As long as you are wearing the right shoes and clothes, you do not need to worry about getting wet and that is a great load off your mind. Contrary to a lot of people around you, you are protected and can confidently go about your day.

Try to buy gear that you are comfortable in and like the look of. Getting ready to step outside when raining is already off-putting as it is. Don't make it worse by wearing rain gear you hate.

And most of all, just like I explained in the previous parts of theses series, it is all abouting gauging the intensity of the rain (and the temperature) while keeping in mind your destination. Cold and rainy? Grab your waterproof high-tops. Wait... going to the office? Make them a little smart.

Going out for groceries in the rain? If it is only a drizzle, regular shoes will do just fine. Wait... what if it gets worse and the shop is a bit far or you are cycling? Maybe you should rock your waterproof low-tops and pack waterproof overpants, just in case.

Once you have formed these habits, selecting the right footwear for the rain will become automatic. And all that will be left for you to do is complement those shoes with the rest of the outfit, choosing clothes you love!

Wait... What about the bag? What if my computer gets wet?