The good news is, I managed to narrow it down to 5. Maybe even 4. We will see.
What I want to stress from the get-go though, is this: you cannot just wear any backpack with any outfit. I am serious. This is actually what pushed me to write this article.
So you are getting extra styling tips.
I will not be name-dropping a lot of brands in this article; what I want to focus on is what kinds of bags are necessary for what situations, as well as how you can integrate these bags into your wardrobe.
Without further ado, let's get into it.
1. Casual shoulder bag or backpack: around 20 litres
You can go 2 routes: the shoulder bag or the backpack one.
Just know casual backpacks make you look younger. This can be a positive or a negative, depending on the situation. But that is highly subjective. Choose whichever you prefer. Possibilities are endless. Lots of reputable brands and solid options out there. For both shoulder bags and backpacks, Eastpak is an option if you do not mind the youthful image. I know I don't.
Side note: shoulder bags are not as comfortable as backpacks if you are going to walk for a long time, so that is something to keep in mind. Backpacks, (especially if they have chest or hip straps) will always be the better option for your back and shoulders.
The summertime equivalent of the shoulder bag is the Cotton tote bag. Off-white graphic totes from Uniqlo never disappoint.
How to style it:
Casual shoulder bags, totes, or backpacks go with any casual outfit.
This should be obvious, but I have to add this reminder because I see it too often; I do not think you should carry a casual backpack if you are wearing a suit, or one of these ugly business backpacks made for air travel. A dressy outfit should be complemented with a smart bag. Maybe a computer shoulder bag is OK with a suit, but you will not have room to stuff the rest of your belongings. So check out the next chapter if you often wear suits, or even if you like to dress up a little every now and again.
2. Fancy bag: around 20 litres
This is the one you need to match your dressier outfits: not just suits (which I almost never wear) but also smart casual and preppy ensembles. This can be the ideal bag to bring to the office.
In my opinion, shoulder bags are preferable (for the reason I mentioned in the first chapter) but backpacks can be acceptable.
Basically anything that looks well-crafted and clean will do the job: cotton canvas, leather, even faux-leather (this is on a case-by-base basis: some are fine while others can look awful) or nylon in certain cases.
Filson is a top-tier brand if you have that kind of money, but you do not have to pay top dollar. Plenty of reassuringly cheap options out there.
How to style it: you can usually dress them up or down; there are lots of different possibilities.
3. Big military backpack: between 30 and 40 litres
I just love the look of a rugged military backpack. They have that aggressive guerrilla warfare style to them that makes people not want to mess with you, they are spacious, water-resistant, on the cheaper side and more importantly, they are indestructible.
I think they are great for packing everything from big books, files, groceries, the pair of shoes you just bought in their box, the result of your last shopping haul, to your big parka, a change of clothes, etc.
You do not have to buy a military backpack for this category; you could use an outdoor backpack, but you need a bag with a very big opening so you can put voluminous objects in there. An outdoor backpack obviously has less of an urban look, although it can be pulled off in the city (you may want to go for neutral tones in that case). More generally, I just think there are too many positives with tactical backpacks for you to go look elsewhere. But obviously, you have got to be down with the looks.
You will find them online or in physical surplus army shops. They are usually listed as "tactical backpacks" and are often not very expensive. In Europe, one of the brands that offer the best value seems to be Helikon tex which is a Polish brand. I have had a Mil-tec 34-litre assault pack for the past 6 years and I have no complaints. Mil-tec is a German brand that is on the cheaper side, and that is the beauty of those bags. You can go top-tier with tactical backpacks, but you can also go cheap and that will not be as risky as going cheap with civilian goods. Because quality on military-grade stuff HAS TO BE on point (for survival reasons).
How to style it:
That is the best part: they go with literally everything; as long as you get a black one. The other colours (coyote, olive, camo) stand out a little, being more military-looking. As a result, they are a bit harder to style and go better with casual outfits.
Whatever you do, try not to overdo it with military clothes in the rest of your outfit, so as to keep it balanced. Also leave this bag at home if you are headed to a heavily militarised area with checkpoints. The last thing you want is to be mistaken for a member of the armed forces if you are not.
One of the worst mistakes I made was buying an olive military backpack in Mexico city and bringing it to the Chiapas jungle 15 years ago. Thank god I speak decent Spanish and managed to talk my way out of this predicament, when I got stopped at a military checkpoint; I got mistaken for a foreign supporter of the local guerrilla and it could have ended badly.
The good old, rugged military backpack.
4. Waterproof bag: around 20 litres
When the weather takes a turn for the worse, none of the backpacks I have mentioned until now will do the job. If it is only a drizzle, some water resistance should be enough.
But I am talking storm here. If you are out and about for more than a couple of minutes, your bag -along with what is inside, will be soaked. And that could have dreadful consequences. This is why you need a waterproof bag.
The good news is, you can find very good bargains, especially on sale. My go-to is a waterproof tote by Scandinavian brand Rains, which I managed to scoop for 70% off. but there are a lot of similar ones out there. More often than not, they have very few pockets because water can get inside zippers. But the lack of external pockets can also give off a smart look. Mind you, a lot of Rains bags have a dressy vibe to them and I would go as far as to say that your waterproof bag, as long as it has a clean aesthetic, can be used as your fancy bag.
This can be a backpack or a shoulder bag (as always, I find shoulder bags to be a bit less teenager-looking and not mess with your silhouette as much). It can also be a roll-top bag if you are cycling (maybe look into cycling-centric brands if you are interested).
How to style it: several different options, goes with a lot of outfits.
Note: what if you get caught in heavy rain with a backpack from any other category, which is NOT waterproof? Do not worry, once again, I got you. Ever seen or heard of rain covers for outdoor backpacks? If you have not, look them up. These are a life saver and they are cheap as hell. You might not want to go for the typical vibrant outdoor colours (orange is the most common) unless you want to be seen: think walking on the side of the road or cycling. For neutral, urban tones (black is the most common) hit your local military surplus shop. You should be able to get one for around 10 euros. They pack very small and can be left in your bag or tied around the handle for emergency purposes. Make sure to air dry your cover (in the shade) before packing it though!
5. Outdoor backpack: between 40 and 60 litres
This is the one for your adventures: traveling, backpacking, hiking, you name it.
Osprey and Lafuma are my two favourite brands for this category. Osprey is a fan favourite in the outdoor space; and Lafuma, to me, is the French equivalent.
When it comes to outdoor gear, I always go for specialised brands, and backpacks are no exceptions. I would never buy an outdoor backpack from a brand that is not known for primarily selling backpacks.
Mind you, you might need several outdoor backpacks if you are serious about traveling and hiking: at least 1 big backpack for backpacking and a small one for day-hikes. But that is a topic for another article.
You can also use suitcases in certain scenarios, but that is also for another article.
Back to outdoor backpacks.
You can totally use one in the city if you like. You can actually use a 20-litre one instead of the bag I mentioned in the first chapter. The only golden rule is, and this is one of the most important tips in this article: whatever you do, make sure YOUR OUTFIT MATCHES YOUR BACKPACK.
How to style it:
I have witnessed it all my life and continue to do so every single day. This is something you see a lot in big, touristy cities. People will be wearing semi-formal attires and carrying huge outdoor backpacks -and that is a very, very awkward look.
Do not get it twisted: you do not have to look like a full-on hiker to carry these things around. Jeans are fine. But I am sorry, the dressy leather shoes, the leather jacket, the blazer (oh my god the blazer), the trench coat and the wool coat have to GO. This kind of backpack gives off an informal and technical, mountain-ready look; so the rest of the outfit has to match this vibe: think casual garments, activewear, joggers, outdoor gear, cargos, sneakers, combat boots but certainly not high heels. Yes, ladies, I am looking in your direction. I see it all the time. Not only does it look weird, but it is very dangerous. Carrying heavy loads puts you off-balance and with that kind of footwear, a sprained ankle is around every corner.
6. Bonus: gym bag
I have never used one myself because I have never really worked out in a gym but I know people do use them a lot, so be my guest if that is your thing! It is not a must, but I figured I would add it as a bonus option.
7. Final tip about colour
When it comes to colour, you can go with whatever rocks your boat (with more eccentric colours often going on sale), but that does not mean you should.
The most style-centric among us will go for a neutral colour that is easy to match with most of your wardrobe. For this reason, I tend to go with a lot of black, but also brown / beige or navy.
However, if you already wear a lot of monochromatic outfits, a pop of colour could be the way to go!
Keep in mind you cannot machine-wash a backpack. They can be a pain to clean.
Stains will not show as much if you go for a dark tone (you know what they say: once you go black...). Light colours look nice on the first day, but they can make your life miserable in the long run (true story).
If you are going to take away anything from this article, remember this basic rule of thumb:
Smart outfit ➡️ smart bag
It does not get any simpler than this.
The opposite is not necessarily true and there is more freedom with smarter bags which you can dress up or down, even though I also like to apply the rule above the other way around.
Apart from that, you know the drill: analyse the situation as well as the weather and select the right backpack for the mission: where am I going? What am I wearing? What/how many items do I want to carry? Is it raining? Am I walking, driving, commuting or cycling?
These are the questions you should ask yourself before grabbing the right bag. Take 5 minutes to reflect on all this before leaving home and you will have a much better day.