Is it OK to wear clothes made of polyester (and other synthetics)?

The hunt is on. And polyester and its synthetic relatives are the prey. Everyone hates them with a passion; every fashion content creator has at least one video talking about this new threat.
And rightfully so. Synthetics are all obtained through petrochemistry; which means it is nothing more than plastic. That is right, you are wearing plastic. There is plastic everywhere, and clothing is no exception.

Why is it so bad? Can we completely avoid them?

Is it sometimes OK to wear clothes made of synthetics?

And just what fabrics are synthetics?

What alternatives do we have?

This topic raises a lot of questions and we are going to try and answer them all in the most reasonable way possible.

Why polyester, as well as other synthetics are a problem

There are several reasons why synthetics are bad, which can be summed up with 2 words: environment and health.

Petrochemistry uses an awful lot of energy; and the amount of pollution created in the process is just ridiculous.
Not to mention the waste that stays in the environment forever after all this clothing is thrown away. Have you ever seen photos of ultra fast fashion waste in places like Ghana or Chile? Mountains of clothes covering gigantic areas as far as the eyes can see. It is an absolute disgrace.

We already knew about microplastics found in clothes made of synthetics that go into running water when doing the washing-up, which is devastating. But a new topic has rekindled discussions on clothing-related sustainability lately: PFAs. Unless you live under a rock, you must have heard of this very persistent chemical which, for instance, is present in waterproof membranes such as Gore-Tex. There is growing concern about next-to-skin contact with these membranes, since there is scientific consensus on the fact PFAs are an endocrine disruptor. And the worst thing is, it looks like it is almost impossible to get rid of them.

Yes, it is pretty bad.

What are synthetics again?

There are a lot of them but the most common are: 

• polyester, which is extremely cheap, that is why it is ubiquitous. 

• Nylon or polyamide, similar to polyester but more expensive because it is more resistant.

• Acrylic, which is a poor substitute for wool.

• Viscose which is a poor substitute for cotton.

There are others but these are the main ones.

Everyday clothes with a high percentage of synthetics

It should come as no surprise to you that everyday clothing made of 100% polyester (or other synthetics), especially those coming from ultra-fast fashion brands, are to be avoided at all costs.

You should avoid them for the reasons I described above, but also because this type of clothing smells very bad after only 1 wear and is nowhere near as durable as clothing made of natural fabrics.

But you should also stay away from clothing that only contains a small amount of natural fibers, mixed with a high percentage of synthetics. Especially those common items that are meant to be made of natural fabrics. Jeans for example, should ALWAYS be made of cotton. Same for formal long-sleeve shirts. Same for casual t-shirts, hoodies and crewnecks. Blazers should be made of wool. Maybe cotton. Certainly not polyester. Just like scarves. The list goes on.

Your first reflex should always be to gravitate towards natural fibers: cotton, wool, silk, linen, hemp. These are your best friends. They are more durable, will retain their shape, breathe better and actually FEEL better.

"Ok! so, all I have to do is avoid ultra-fast fashion altogether and I should be safe!"

Unfortunately, things are more complicated. Even one of my favourite brands, Carhartt, is guilty of selling (for a very high price too) some winter jumpers with a very, very high percentage of synthetics (I'm talking 80%). That is why the number 1 rule of thumb is: always look at the tag before buying any garment. Check the composition. Scams are everywhere. They can come for the most trustworthy of brands. There is a reason why this information is hidden (no conspiracy theory here).

So, like I was saying, as I was looking at sales a few weeks ago, I found a Carhartt sweater that was mainly made of acrylic. And that is very bad news. Acrylic will not insulate like wool, and most importantly, it will not breathe like wool. Worst investment ever. So watch out: even the most reputable brands will try to sell you clothes with high percentages of synthetics and your answer should be: NO THANK YOU.

Hold on, hold on, hold on... as always, it is not all black and white. There are a few exceptions: my beloved Dickies 874 pants which are 65% polyester, actually serving a purpose (I will go back to this topic) miraculously still look pretty good after several washes. The very famous Watch hat by Carhartt is another exception worth mentioning. Can you believe it is this streetwear staple, a 100% acrylic beanie that made the brand as famous as it is right now among the masses? This thing is tough as nails. And beanies made of acrylic are not as bad as clothes. Wool hats usually get itchy and are heavier, as well as more high maintenance (not to mention the price).

So we will give these two a pass.

Wait. Only these two get a pass? That is it? 

Let's talk about this controversial topic in the next chapter.

Clothing made for sports and waterproof gear

We have only talked about regular clothing until now. But clothing made for sports as well as waterproof/water-resistant clothing have to be made of synthetics. 

I am sorry. That is just the way it is. There is no way around it. You may have to make an exception for these.

First of all, let us discuss sports clothing: when it is cold outside and you are doing sports, sweat is your enemy. Especially if you are wearing cotton. Cotton will hold on to moisture. That will make you cold and weak; and that, in turn will make you proner to catch a virus. That is how you get sick.

It can also cause hypothermia, especially in the great outdoors.

And that is why 100% synthetics like polyester and nylon are necessary.

Fleece jackets and pullovers are a classic in winter. You need one, especially if you backpack or go on a hike. You could use wool. That is what our ancestors used to do. But it is heavier, harder to clean, bulky, difficult to pack, more fragile, etc.

Fleece was invented by a brand called Patagonia, along with another company that is now called Polartec, as a more practical alternative to wool. Patagonia gives out a lot of its earnings to environmental organisations every year. Its founder, Yvon Chouinard has even written a book about the challenges and paradox of making both unsustainable and durable clothing meant to be worn in the great outdoors: Let my people go surfing.

Because not all synthetics are born equal. The polyester used by Patagonia or French luxury running brand Satisfy has nothing to do with the one used by Shein. We will go back to this idea.

             My Patagonia Retro Pile fleece jacket comes in handy every winter and it looks extra good, too. The warmth-to-weight ratio + the breathability are unmatched.

Water-resistant and waterproof clothes work the same way as sports clothes but instead of wicking moisture, their purpose is to wick rain away. 

I am afraid we cannot forgo waterproof jackets made of polyester or polyamide when it is raining. It is just a fact. No fabric is as waterproof as these too. Especially not natural fibers.

The good news is, Gore-Tex has got rid of all "intentional PFAs" in 2025. And other brands are following suit. We certainly are not getting rid of all of them, but it is a good start.

Urban clothes with a small percentage of synthetics

Apart from waterproof and sports clothes, I also want to mention the case of certain brands making clothing with a high percentage of natural fabrics and a small one of synthetics (20 to 30% tops).

Do not write them off. Even though the polyester or nylon are sometimes there to cut corners and lower manufacturing costs, it is rarely the only reason why they are there. 80% wool / 20% nylon sweaters or coats, for example, will be more solid. Sweat pants with 80 / 20 polycotton blends are usually fleece-lined to keep your legs warm when it gets chilly out there.

But it is not just about that. There is an expensive Japanese brand called Nanamica which intentionally makes clothing that, more often than not, contains a small percentage of polyester. It is not to cut corners. This clothing is made for people with an active lifestyle that need quick-drying clothes for everyday life. Urban outdoor clothing, if you will.

A cheaper version of that would be the all-pervasive Uniqlo U Airism oversized tee. You MUST have heard of this one. I probably have 6 of them and I cannot live without them. I simply love the fit, clean look and quick-drying properties. Have you ever cycled with a 100% cotton t-shirt on, only to realise after a short while that it was drenched in sweat and not drying any time soon? Yeah, tough place to be in. 

The Dickies pants I mentioned earlier are another example of very effective quick-drying pants (although they contain a higher percentage of synthetics than those I just talked about). 

Criticism you will hear often is that non-100% cotton clothes will not retain their shape as well or last as long. I have certainly not experienced this and whenever moisture is involved, I am sure glad some of my clothes have that small percentage of poly.

A lot of people think 100% cotton or 100% wool is the only way to go and that synthetics are always a bad idea, because they have heard of the terrible drawbacks linked to synthetics. I think a bit of nuance would be appreciated.

What are the alternatives to synthetics?

First of all, let's talk about how you can limit the health hazards and environmental damage with clothes made of synthetics. 

• Rule number 1: try to only go for recycled polyester. For example, plastic bottles found in oceans and repurposed.

• Try to only use these clothes when it is absolutely necessary. Rain jackets when it rains, windbreakers when it is windy, sports clothes for sports, fleece and synthetic down in the winter. If you only use them from time to time, you should not have to wash them too often, reducing pollution in the process. 

• Try to never wear 100% synthetic clothing next to skin for long periods of time whenever possible (it is neither good for your skin nor for the garment, especially one with a membrane).

Now, are there real alternatives to synthetics?

Yes, there are a couple. 

• Waxed cotton instead of waterproof polyester/nylon. British brand Barbour is the gold standard for that. Jackets look pretty good, as long as you like that middle-aged hunter vibe to them. But you know what it is: waxed cotton is nowhere near as efficient as something like Gore-Tex: it is heavier, not as waterproof and wax often needs to be reapplied. But still, it is an alternative.

• A case could also be made for umbrellas. It is important to note they are still made of synthetic materials. I guess they could be an alternative for Gore-Tex which is particularly subject to PFAs. But as previously discussed here, umbrellas are not very practical since you have to hold them in your hand. They also do not protect your head, body and feet as well as waterproof jackets and shoes. And when wind invites itself along, well... you already know. It is definitely a more breathable option than a jacket in the summer though, I will give you that!

• When it comes to polyester as sports clothes, it can easily be replaced with wool. Wool, although on the heavier side and harder to care for, is naturally moisture-wicking and odour-resistant. So it makes up for his drawbacks compared to synthetics with other benefits. There is also no problem with using wool sweaters instead of fleece for everyday life (I use both, depending on the setting). Nevertheless, wool cannot really replace polyester fleece as an outdoor mid-layer for outdoor activities as we saw before.

• Polyester can easily be replaced with cotton in the scorching summer. Wet cotton will keep you cool and probably end up drying quickly (often leaving sweat stains though, yuck).

• Finally, I want to touch on rayon, which happens to be a sustainable alternative for viscose. I have little experience with it myself but it seems like a good substitute.

• Hemp also seems very promising, but on the rarer side. I have never come across it.

The conclusion is simple: you should wear as many clothes cut from natural fabrics as possible, but it is OK to wear synthetics every now and again, whenever you have to. Do not beat yourself up. You cannot always do the right thing. Everything cannot be sustainable all the time. Same with food. Not all your meals are 100% good for you. And that is OK. I have to use diapers for my baby. Diapers are the least sustainable thing in the world. 1 more year and I will be able to stop. Do you get my point?

As always, I like to get philosophical when talking about clothing and this time, I will refer to buddhism: perfectionism is self-mortification.  

Oh, and one last thing. Do not let anyone tell you that all polyesters are the same. It is just not true. Content creators love to knock synthetics without distinction in short videos with clickbait titles. Yes these fabrics all essentially come from petroleum. But a fleece jacket from Uniqlo and one from Patagonia are worlds apart. Do not get me wrong, Uniqlo offers incredible value for the price. But the Patagonia fleece will probably last a lifetime among other benefits, and that is the kind of purchases we should all be making whenever possible. Buying disposable items (not just clothing) from ultra fast-fashion brands is the real enemy.