What to wear when it's raining in the city: jackets (1/3)

We've all been there. Looking out the window with despair as rain falls. Instead of accepting reality, either because we do not have the right gear or because we are feeling too lazy to put it on. You know what comes next. Going out and ending up being soaked for the rest of the day. 

After many bad experiences, I have decided to put an end to this attitude some time ago. But every time I step outside, I can't help but notice very few people have adopted the same approach.

I see it all the time. People walking around in hoodies using the hood as protection from the rain (spoiler alert, the hood on a hoodie is NOT made for that), wearing jeans, chore coats or denim jackets, rocking Uggs or flip flops, using their scarves or their bags as temporary shields to not get their hair wet and rushing to the closest sheltered area, swearing away.

And they see me: strolling around in my rain gear with a smirk on my face, sometimes even taking my time, unbothered as I go about my business. And that drives them even madder. Deep down, I almost feel superior. There's nothing more satisfying than walking through an ocean of unprepared people paying the price for their bad choices while you reign supreme, as your gear keeps you nice and dry.

Yet, what I tend to forget is that I was in those people's shoes, not so long ago. Until I made the conscious decision of always wearing the right rain gear. However, this was only the beginning. I embarked on a long journey of buying each item I needed one by one, reading countless articles and product descriptions, testing different brands and technologies in various scenarios, on a trial-and-error basis.

The truth is: wearing the right clothes, especially when the weather takes a turn for the worse, does not come naturally. They do not teach you that at school even though they should. For it is an indispensable skill, just like knowing how to read.

Rain jackets

First and foremost, you should carefully choose your jacket. It is the most important piece of gear in wet weather. If you're running errands, going to get your kid at school, cycling, traveling, etc., it is a no brainer: grab a regular do-it-all rain jacket from an outdoor brand -with a hood, that goes without saying. 

Hold on, hold on, hold on... Why don't I just use an umbrella like regular people do?

Umbrellas are fine as emergency kit. But they do not offer full coverage. Besides, they are not very practical. What do you do when you are done using it and it is soaking wet? Put it back in its case to let it gather mould and only find out later? Carry it in your hand, waiting for it to dry and get your sleeve all wet? Or just put it somewhere random and completely forget about it? I don't know about you, but I have lost so many umbrellas in my life, it's not even funny.

Have I convinced you? Ok, back to jackets.

Side note: you might think that you don't necessarily need an outdoor rain jacket because "you don't hike" or "you do not want to look like a hiker". First of all, it is not because you are moving around an urban landscape that you do not need to protect from the elements. The elements are just harsher in the great outdoors, but rain and wind are also a "threat" in the city. When it comes to looks, rain jackets have been getting more and more popular over the last 2 decades or so (and have been worn casually since the dawn of time by people living in towns by the mountains or the beach): they are no longer weirdly looked upon like they used to in the city. 

As far as I'm concerned, I don't mind the "urban outdoor" look (I even like it a lot, to be honest) but if you don't, I have something for you in the second part of this article. End of side note.

The most important feature you must be looking for in a rain jacket is the following: it should be waterproof AND breathable. 

And when I say waterproof, I do mean waterproof. Water-resistant jackets are a step down and will not protect you from heavy downpours, only drizzles. That being said, if it very rarely rains where you live, or you'll only be wearing your jacket for short periods of time in the city, the latter can be considered as an alternative.

"Water-resistant" and "waterproof" are often used interchangeably, even by pros, creating a lot of confusion in the process, but they are two different things.

In my opinion, the minimum acceptable rating for both waterproofness and breathability is 10,000. I will not go into the technical details of what these measurements mean here but I suggest you follow my recommendations; and always be wary of brands claiming their jacket is waterproof without at least including a waterproof rating.

The jacket should also have a DWR (Durable Water Repellency) finish to it, which helps water bead off the jacket so it does not get soaked quickly and remains breathable. As the name does not suggest, DWR wears off and should be reapplied every now and again.

Make sure seams are fully taped, so water does not sneak its way in there.

The other features you should look for are adjustable cuffs, cinches on either side of the hood as well as behind it, and at least 2 pockets.

Pit zips also play an important role because you know what? Marketing is lying to you. A rain jacket can be both breathable and waterproof but not at the same time!

As soon as it starts raining, it may start to feel very hot and damp inside your jacket (depending on the temperature outside and how active you are) and one of the best ways to regulate your temperature and not drown in your own sweat is to unzip those pit zips.

NB: if you happen to be somewhere really hot or with a tropical climate, a waterproof jacket is, more often than not, a bad idea, for the reasons described above. Alternatives can be rain ponchos (fashionistas are leaving the chat) which, by essence, are much more breathable; or even an umbrella. But I will cover that in another article.

Colour is also a factor you should consider, beyond personal preferences. If you're only planning on using it for the city, a neutral tone can be the way to go, if you are trying to remain inconspicuous. You can then pick a colour that matches your "rain outfit". However, if you're cycling or planning to use your jacket for outdoor pursuits, then bold colors are preferable: red, green, orange, yellow, vibrant blue, fuschia, you name it. These will make you highly visible, which can save your life on the road and on the trails.

When it comes to fit, I think a regular fit is the sweet spot so you can comfortably layer underneath your jacket and keep a good range of motion. I would stay away from slim fits that are more performance-oriented, unless you are the muscular type and want to show that off.

You must also think about the type of membrane you want. This is the waterproof layer that is inside your jacket (by the way, water-resistant jackets do not require membranes); and in this field, Gore-Tex, which you must have heard of by now, is the gold standard.

Or is it?

The truth is, even though marketing has convinced us that Gore-Tex was the only trustworthy waterproof membrane, most membranes do a similar job. And a Gore-Tex membrane will always be one of the most expensive options. At the end of the day, all that matters is those waterproof and breathability ratings.

Finally, you will have a choice between 3-layer jackets and 2,5-layer jackets (forget about 2-layer rain jackets). All you need to know is that 3-layer jackets are the sturdiest option, albeit on the slightly heavier side compared to their 2,5 counterparts. The latter are lighter and more packable but the trade-off is a more fragile build. These end up wearing out more quickly, most notably around the shoulder area if you carry a lot of backpacks. Patagonia has even stopped making 2,5-jackets for their lack of durability.

Only go for 2,5-layer jackets if weight is a concern and you will not be carrying heavy loads; or if you know you will only use your jacket as an emergency layer. But to me, 3-layer rain jackets are the way to go.

When it comes to brands, I cannot give you a comprehensive list of all the jackets that are worth it out there, but I can give you a few examples.

When it comes to French brands, K-way was way ahead of its time in the 80's with their urban outdoor appeal and packability, but I find them to lack features nowadays, and not be up to par with models from other brands.

Cimalp is a respected French brand that offers good value for money. However, they are very good at making jackets for one specific use (trail running, hiking, cycling) but offer few crossover options.

Millet is another highly-regarded French brand but it is a top-tier option that is more on the performance side of things, which comes at a cost.

I cannot give you specific names of models to buy for these brands, but these are the ones you should look into if you're French and want to keep things local. If you are from another country, I highly suggest you look for local options and recommend them here in the comment section!

What I can certainly vouch for are the jackets I own, and to me, these are the best options money can buy: the Patagonia Torrentshell jacket and the Marmot minimalist Gore-Tex jacket. Both of them are built like tanks, can be used for urban use as well as cycling and outdoor activities, and have very high waterproof/breathability ratings.  The best thing is, you can buy either one those 2 jackets for under 200€ on sale! I know this can be seen as expensive, but you will get so much use out of them, they will quickly become a worthy investment. I wish I could only buy from local brands, but when it comes to outdoor brands, American ones tend to offer some of the best value for money, as well as well-rounded garments that work for a number of scenarios, including city use. The Patagonia jacket is 3 layers and uses an in-house membrane, while the Marmot one is 2,5 layers and uses a Gore-Tex membrane. I know I said earlier that 2.5 layer-jackets were to be avoided but this jacket is so sturdy, it feels like a 3-layer one! NB: I just found out the 2026 iteration was no longer using Gore-Tex but Pertex, which is a very reputable brand for waterproof membranes.

Anyway, you don't have to buy these specific jackets, but I just wanted to point out that after a lot of research I found these to be among the best options when taking into account a number of criteria. And they have been tried and tested by yours truly (no sponsor here)!

At the higher end of the spectrum you have brands like Arc'teryx (from Canada) as well as Scandinavian brands like Norrona and Haglofs.

While I would love to be gifted a jacket from these brands as a die-hard technical fashion fan, I would never spend 500+€ on a rain jacket. Why? Because they are absolutely overkill for urban/light outdoor use. This is serious mountaineering gear which you only need when tackling the harshest of weathers, high up on a mountain.

On that note, you have probably seen a lot of young people rocking Arc'teryx jackets to school or to coffee shops lately (or worse, taking showers in them on TikTok). They have been very trendy for the last 3 or 4 years or so, and as the trend is now dying down, they are finding their inital function again: serving as a shield against snow storms and freezing winds up a glacier, in the dead of winter. So unless this sounds like fun, I don't think you need one of those.

Wait a minute so, I can spend a bit more than 100€, get a robust rain jacket and roll with it for the rest of my life if I care for it properly?

Short answer: no. First of all, I should probably warn you: proper care is a bit tricky, and you have to be diligent with it. It is still doable. But even with proper care, rain jackets, with intensive use, have limited lifespans. Why? Because Gore-Tex and other similar jackets all end up delaminating (look it up). An unavoidable process that always happens after a few years of faithful service (3 to 8 years, depending on how often you use it and in what conditions). This is the price to pay for staying dry.

Another drawback is chemicals. This type of jackets have been known to carry PFAS, which you have probably heard of at this stage. While most brands, including Gore-Tex are moving away from using PFAS, there are always lingering "unintentional" PFAS.

So why not choose a "natural" alternative? Well, we would, I mean, I would if I could. But the truth is, there is nothing as efficient as this type of rain jackets. Waxed cotton is an alternative you could look into if you are interested, but it is nowhere near as waterproof and lightweight as a Gore-Tex jacket (or one with a similar type of membrane).

                                                                                          2 for the price of 1 -my trusty rain jackets: Patagonia Torrentshell and Marmot Minimalist Gore-Tex.

Urban rain coats

I know what some of you were thinking when I was touching on "urban outdoor" style above. It is not your style. Or maybe it is, but not when you are going to work. You want something that looks more urban, maybe more formal. Well, I have options for you. However, just keep 3 things in mind:

-First of all, you will have a hard time avoiding synthetic fabrics like nylon/polyester.

-Second of all, a lot of those jackets are only water-resistant. When they are (truly) waterproof, you will have to pay a premium for it.

-Last but not least, these coats are usually longer than the previous kind of jacket I mentioned. Shorter jackets make for better ease of movement, but leave legs exposed. Longer coats cover legs; the trade-off is less agility: no back-country use, no cycling in them; no versatility. 

In my humble opinion, it is good to have an outdoor rain jacket AND an urban rain coat. However, I do not think you should be paying an awful lot of money for the latter (unless you live in a very rainy place and you physically go to the office every day).

I have a Uniqlo x Jil Sander oversized rain/trench coat which I got for a little bit over 50€ a few years ago and that I am great fan of. I like the easy range of motion and Japanese "city boy" look provided by the roomy fit, plus the fact it has no hood makes it look less casual. I usually pair it with an umbrella or a stylish rain bucket hat (from the Scandi brand Rains) to protect my head and I am good to go!

Keep in mind a water-resistant coat will not give you the best protection you need against the elements. It is ok if you're only walking in light rain for 10 minutes or so. If it is more than that and you know you will find yourself in a shower, it might be best to opt for a waterproof rain jacket with another jacket in your bag. All you have to do is switch jackets when you get to where you are going in case smart dress is required.

I think Uniqlo is a wonderful place to start get a coat like that, especially collaborations with high-end designers; especially on sale.

Brands like Rains offer similar options with hoods, but the quality was a let-down as far as I am concerned. I did not get very lucky with Rains coats, only with Rains accessories. So I cannot really recommend the brand for coats, but maybe I got one that came from a batch with defects.

There are quite a few brands that offer this type of urban rain coat for a price between 50 and 100 euros and you might even be able to find one from a local brand.

At the higher end of the spectrum, you have brands like Norwegian rain, Veilance (Canadian brand, Arc'teryx urban counterpart) or even Aigle, if you want a French brand that offers Gore-Tex urban rain coats.

As you can imagine, these can get very expensive, but if you have the budget, you will not be disappointed.

I think we are done here. This was a long article but a necessary one. I am sorry if I end this on a cringy philosophical note but as Carl Jung has it, it is of the utmost importance to "make the unconscious conscious" in one's life; and getting dressed is no exception. Taking into account the weather before choosing your jacket can make a difference between a horrible day (or week if you get sick) and a not-so-bad day. Winning over the elements is highly satisfying: it helps you get on with your plans, no matter the weather. The show must go on!

Even if I mentioned Urban rain coats as a more work-friendly options, let's be clear: there is absolutely nothing wrong with turning up at the office proudly rocking your favourite Gore-Tex colorful rain jacket. It is all about how you want to be perceived.

We have only covered jackets in this section so be sure to check out part 2 and 3 to know what pants and shoes to wear in the rain. In the meantime, stay dry out there!

                                                                         My favourite urban rain coat of all time: the oversized Uniqlo x Jil Sander trench coat. A more muted, work-friendly option.